Article written by Rafael Distance covered: Since San Francisco: 4500km Since Mexico City: 600km
After spending almost 2 weeks in Mexico, it was time to leave this big city, very interesting but tiring after a bit! We did it again on our bikes, but in two days to get closer from the exit and the next day having time to go over the 3200 m mountains. Then we stopped in Iztapalapa at our couchsurfing with Jaime and his family in the eastern neighborhood of Mexico city, we had to go through a very busy and stressful traffic, hopefully just for 30km. The day after, was a little tough as we had 1000m of elevation gain and 75km after a 2 weeks break, but going up, and up, is always beautiful with volcanoes and city views, and more entertaining than boring flat roads! After this big uphill we just had to leave our bikes roll down to a little town before Puebla. The toughest part of the day was probably to find a place to sleep, we arrived there asked in a church where we waited an hour to get the answer of the father which was just a NO without even a look at me… Following the advice of the church secretary then we tried the police station where we had our passport checked for another 40 minutes and the night was coming and we hadn’t other choice, but they accepted us after all being sure we were not terrorist or so!
The next day we got to see Puebla quickly on our way to Raquel’s house in Acajete where we spent 2 days. In her house, la casa de piedra we helped her plastering her walls with cob, and learnt about all the workshops she did (about recycling, cob construction, permaculture…), how she is involved in her town to promote sustainable living and ate delicious meat cooked in a cob oven for her mom’s birthday!
From there we had 4 days left to get to our final riding destination, Oaxaca. This stretch has been probably one of the most hilly, but also one of the most beautiful in the mainland. We stayed on the highway for most of the way,
however it was very quiet, and the road was swinging in desert landscapes, canyons with limestone cliffs, higher plateaux and at the end greenish hills. It has been tough as we were never sure of how big and long were the hills expecting us, but the beauty made it very enjoyable. We slept the first night in the main plaza of San Mateo Tlacoxcalco having dinner in the middle of kids and policeman questioning us, the second one in an unofficial motel in Tepelmeme, and the third one in a totally lost village in the mountains North west of Oaxaca. Arriving there we met the mayor after spending 15 minutes looking for somebody in the village and he
left us set up the camp in basketball field. We met him again the next morning when he woke us up with shots of Mezcal after for him apparently a big party! He made us experience a very typical Sunday breakfast in the village, some sort of corn grits cooked with a lamb on top in a buried bricks and Maguey leaf oven. Everything is eaten on top of a Maguey leaf with a Maguey leaf spoon and a little bit of blood cooked in the stomach. Now we know we get to Oaxaca, Mezcal country (which is actually distilled Maguey).
In Oaxaca we spent a little more than a week, had time to visit, chill in the laid back plaza, and meet some interesting persons for the project, but also just interesting people!
We stayed 2 days with CACITA, an organisation building bicimaquinas, see their work, helping them building a filter for their dry toilets, and fixing bikes!
We also had the opportunity to ride the paseo nocturno de Mundo Ceiba, and interview them.
Another funny meeting were Salvador, a retired professional cyclist we apparently crossed the day before getting to Oaxaxa who absolutely wanted to invite us for breakfast, which we had the opportunity to do after our visit of Monte Alban a Zapotec Archeological site.
We also met again with Jorge, a friend we rode with in Baja California, and try some of Oaxaca nightlife with lots of Mezcal! From there, it’s been like in La Paz, meeting many bike tourers, from UK, USA, Switzerland…
After this last stop in Oaxaca as we were mentioning before we decided to stop the project for now, and hopefully another team will ride the last stretch and learn from the interesting project in the last stretch to Costa Rica. On our side we will start publishing some more contents in the sustainability Tool-kit, and let you know what we did exactly, in the next few month.
Good bye everybody!
Rafael






















